The kit sprocket that bolts on to the rear wheel is a nuisance. It’s time consuming, and can be difficult to adjust properly. They are undoubtedly the cause of countless chain derailments. It creates an imbalanced load on your wheel causing rapid wear, fatigue, and even failure in some cases.

Use of a Motorized Bicycle Hub w/ HD axle and cartridge bearings can rid you of the kit sprocket hassle.

Substituting a sprocket and adapter for a brake disc on a disc brake rear hub simplifies 1 speed drives

Both MB hubs and disc brake hubs provide a rigid mechanical mount for your kit sprocket to mount up to quickly and properly the 1^st time!

 

If you are able to tension both the pedal chain and the motor driven chain while keeping the wheel alignment true and the chain clears your frame, no

If you clear the frame but have trouble tensioning both chains while keeping alignment:

Try a ½ link in the looser of the 2 chains. A ½ link allows you to reduce a chain by 1 link instead of the normal 2.

Also shimming your motor’s mount so that you can isolate engine side chain adjustment. Or utilizing free travel in your engine mount can help.

It’s really a personal choice, to use it or not, unless you have to!

I view it as less to go wrong if I don’t have it. Though correctly employed it can be hassle free and really helpful. Whatever’s easiest and works for your application.

If you do use it, be sure to twist it a little so it’s inline w/ your chain. ‘cause your frame tubes, where the tensioner mounts, aren’t inline w/ the chain.

 

Machines don’t take the time to remove the stress or twist left in the spokes after tightening them in a single operation.

A Wheelwright evenly tensions the wheel and releases stresses from the spokes as the wheel is laced. The rim is already centered and true as the spokes are pulled into tension.

A machine completely tightens each spoke in succession distorting the rim pulling it out of round only to force it back when all spokes are tight. Steel is more resilient to that type of “one time” distortion than aluminum.

Properly tensioned wheels, purpose built with quality components keep their shape and last longer. A wellbuilt wheel is more confidence inspiring with smooth handling, responsiveness, and resilience to urban and rural terrain alike. Greater handling for a safer ride!

Brakes are the most important component on your motorbicycle! These are my opinions gained from many years of riding and mechanical experience. I would encourage you to get a second opinion, to do your own investigation etc. Also it should be noted that w/in all types there are low to high quality set-ups. Always use the highest quality components you can.

Even the best brakes only work well when properly adjusted w/ quality shoes and pads in good condition

All bicycle brakes, properly adjusted, are adequate for the purpose they are intended. But none were intended for motorized bicycles!

Power, feel, fade and maintenance are the words we’ll use here to describe the most important aspects of braking. Power is pretty simple it has to do w/ the brakes ability to stop the bike More power = less stopping distance and vice versa. Power is the full force potential. Feel is somewhat subjective. A linear brake is one that increases braking effect evenly and proportionately to the input being given. It is not grabby or spongy but firm and controllable at all input from casual stop to panic braking. A good brake doesn’t require a lot of rider input; virtually anyone should be strong enough to confidently use them. Fade is the characteristic of some brakes to lose effectiveness when repeatedly applied, on long downgrades or under heavy load. Maintenance refers to the amount of money and work to keep your brakes working properly

1. Disc Brakes: most will agree that disc brakes are the best all around brake for motorized bicycles. They are powerful, linear, firm feeling, unaffected by rain and will not fade. They are low maintenance. Hydraulic are generally better than cable actuated versions. They can be expensive if your bike didn’t come w/ them especially if your bike is not fitted w/ the frame and fork caliper mounts.

2. Drum or Band Brakes: these brakes are typically designed for heavier loads such as that on motor bikes and tandems. These are a good choice for motored bikes because they are unaffected by rain, are powerful and don’t fade. They are low maintenance. They also allow the use of rim brakes, in addition, for a potential of 4 brakes mounted to your bike. They do however have a spongier feel than other styles and can be tricky to fit in less conventional applications.

3. V-Brakes: These brakes are found on most modern bicycles. Good reliability and simplicity in adjustment provide for an overall good brake for motor bikes. They’re ok in the rain, fairly linear, and don’t fade w/ good shoes. They are require more maintenance than disc or drum. This style of brake is only as good as it’s shoes and state of maintenance.

4. Dual Pivot Side Pull: generally found on comfort, road and older quality bicycles, these brakes are a good economical choice for motorized bicycles. They’re ok in the rain, are reasonably powerful, have good feel, and fit most bikes as direct replacement or upgrade from Single Pivot Side Pull brakes.

5. Single Pivot Side Pull: these brakes are standard on many bmx and the cheapest of dept store bikes. They do not provide safe braking for motor bikes. Maybe ok as rear or back up brake in a multi brake system. Recommend upgrade to Dual Pivot Side Pull brakes.

6. Cantilever Brakes: similar to V-Brakes in performance, they mount the same way and are interchangeable. They are more difficult to adjust and require more maintenance though. Improper installation can render them dangerous in that if the lever cable breaks the union cable that ties the arms together will be actuated by your tire causing uncontrolled hard braking. For these reasons I recommend upgrade to V-Brakes.

7. Coaster Brakes: these brakes are standard on many bmx and the cheapest of dept store bikes. They do not provide safe braking for motor bikes. Maybe ok as a back up brake in a multi brake system. Recommend upgrade to Dual Pivot Side Pull brakes.

In some cases yes, but mostly shift kits make better use of your motor’s power in a given situation i.e. hills, up or down, flats, into the wind w/ the wind, rough or smooth ground surface etc.

Typically you lose much of your ability to pedal assist the motor. However your bike is more functional as a bicycle when the motor is off than typical 1 speed rigs.

A larger rear sprocket is better for hills and heavy loads w/ lower top speed; smaller rear sprocket is for higher top speed at the sacrifice of “off the line” power and the ability to maintain speed on hills.

Typical 2 stroke and 4 stroke kits come w/ 44t rear sprocket and some 4 strokes come w/ 48t and also 56t. If you are unsatisfied w/ your current gearing use the above as a guide to adjust from your current set up.

The kit sprocket clamps to your spokes tightly and close to your wheels center. It transfers a lot of power through one side of your wheel creating a lot of stress on those components. It can be difficult and time consuming to mount and properly adjust. We recommend every other option over the kit supplied sprocket!

There are several products on the market that bypass the kit supplied sprocket. There are products that clamp on to the hub body, there are adapters that can be used on hubs made to mount disc brakes, and there are hubs made specifically for motorized bikes. All of these are a huge upgrade from the rag joint sprocket mounting system.